Categories
cuba salsa

Charanga Habanera in London

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Charanga Habanera in London

Ah, the lovely boys of Charanga’s front line. Cuba’s finest, playing for free in Southwark Park.

We missed them by two days in Havana…and also in Cancun. Well worth the wait…rumour has it they’ll be at the afterparty later tonight at the Colosseum in Vauxhall. This is where it really would be an advantage to be JK Rowling. People in their 20s adore her…they grew up on her books. Bet she’d get to dance with anyone from Charanga she likes.
Well I’ll still try my luck…
Emailed from my BlackBerry®

Categories
cuba salsa

Oi, Mephistopheles…

Ah, the bliss of a return to Cuban salsa after many weeks, oh really far too long without a proper session. Last night’s Buena Vista Club in Oxford offered the bonus of a rare appearance by a total salsa diva, Cuban dancer Yanet Fuentes.

Watching her performance, I said to my friend Becs, “Is it just me, or would you give up all your education and job and talent in exchange for being able to dance like Yanet.” Becs considered. “I’d pretty much sell my soul to be able to dance like that.”

It would be a very reasonable deal. Yanet is extraordinarily good and has trained since being a little girl with top dancers in Havana. And she’s risen to be the best of the lot!

Now if Mephistopheles happens to be around, let’s talk. It would be the end of the adventure stories, probably. But look at what I would gain…

Categories
cuba salsa

Daiquiri en La Floridita


MG with a classic Daiquiri
Originally uploaded by
mgharris

Finally, I get to have my daiquiri en La Floridita*.

In honour of…oh who needs a reason…we went to celebrate, dinner & dancing with friends at London’s La Floridita.

It’s a fancy restaurant/bar/dance club that features the finest examples of Cuban music, and a big variety of rum-based cocktails, including my favourite, the delicious daiquiri. I tried three different ones and they were pretty, pretty, pretty good.

The band was El Guayabero, an excellent son group from Holguin on the eastern side of the island. They played 30-min sets of up-tempo son numbers with some boleros and cha-cha-chas mixed in. No one danced for the first two sets – maybe the people at the bar were shy? Others like us were scoffing down food yummier and more luxurious than you’ll find anywhere but in the very fanciest restaurants in Cuba.

The first time we ever went to Floridita was in January, for my friend Becs’s birthday. That was before we’d been to Cuba (Becs had been many times), before we realised that Floridita is like an idealised, fantasy version of Cuba. In reality I didn’t see anywhere in Cuba that looked anything like this. It’s the levels of consumption – no-where we went in Cuba looked this fancy, certainly not the type of places bands like this play (excluding Varadero – the tourist-only enclave, which I didn’t visit.) In our experience bands like Guayabero play to sweltering, smoky rooms with ineffective celing fans, and the dance floor heaves with expert Cuba couples and salsa tourists being taken for a spin by their Cuban insrtuctors.

During the third set, when we were moved off the table (you only get a 2-hour sitting on busy nights) and back to the bar, we decided to go for it on the dance floor. One couple had just taken the floor. Within seconds of us joining them the dance floor filled. The musicians looked utterly delighted. It must be a drag for a dance band to play to a motionless audience.

However, salseros, whilst the music and atmosphere are romantic and evocative (if not authentic), the drinks are wonderful and the food delish, it is not a cheap night out… And like us, you will probably still need to factor in a visit to a salsa club for a proper dance fix.

We went on to Salsa Republic@Club Colosseum, where the music of Maikel Blanco, Manolito, Issac Delgado, Adalberto and Los Van Van was as ever, wall-to-wall and sizzling hot.

P.S. Inexplicably, a photo of Becs and I dancing at the Manolito concert has rapidly risen to become one of my most viewed photos on Flickr. Is this blog to blame?

Let’s do the experiment. Here’s another MG & Becs dancing salsa photo – better quality, taken last night at Club Colosseum.

* the reference is to Hemingway’s habit of drinking “my daiquiri in La Floridita and my moijto in La Bodeguita” – two of Havana’s most famous bars. The line is quoted in one of Los Van Van’s most popular songs, “Tim Pop con Birdland“, a timba riff on the 1970s jazz classic “Birdland”. For those who are interested in such things, I reckon “Tim Pop con Birdland” may well be my keeper on a Desert island Disc selection…

Categories
cuba ice shock mexico nostalgia salsa videos

Nostalgia for…Beny More

I wasn’t alive in the days of Beny More (pronounced More-ray), the Cuban singer and band leader who went to live in Mexico and became a massive influence on all the Cuban salsa bands.

So why do I get these gorgeous pangs of nostalgia when I listen to Beny More? Why does it make me think of a Cuba and a Mexico I never even knew?

My theory is that as a tiny child I was exposed to this music. I do know that after my mother left my father, I spend a great deal of time with my two grandmothers. One, Abuelita Josefina (known to her old friends as ‘Pepa’) had a wonderful memory for lyrics and knew many of the songs of Beny More. Beny More often appeared in popular Mexican films, which went through a golden age in the 40s and 50s.

So maybe that’s it; maybe I was sat for hours in front of the TV while my grandmother knitted (she was mad for knitting). Maybe that’s where I acquired this overwhelming craving for gorgeous night clubs where Cuban bands play for beautiful people, sipping daiquiris between dancing the son, mambo and cha-cha-cha.

This Cuba does not exist anymore – I’ve been to look for it. It’s all timba and reggaeton now. That’s great, but, ah nostalgia. I once spent a whole afternoon lying next to a pool in Santiago de Cuba, listening to the piped music of Beny More. That’s as close as I got.

Categories
movies salsa

Mi Swing Es Tropical

Watching the latest Jason Bourne movie last night, I was delighted to see the new ad for iTunes+iPod. It’s a little salsa song, with terrific dancing.

Re the Bourne: I enjoyed it but later realised that I’d never once really felt as though Jason was in any real peril. He’s just so ruthlessly efficient that instead of worrying about him I was admiringly thinking…no problem, Jason can handle anything.

There’s a lesson there…